Louboutin Mad at Selfridges

Fashion whispers

NdM Reports:

So now it emerges that Stefano Pilati has left YSL - both Vanessa Friedman and Suzy Menkes have tried to answer the question of who is to blame for all the recent chopping and changing. We at NdM ask another question - can a major design house really last without it's eponymous founder? Chanel is perhaps an exception... 

Fashion Catch Up

Our latest favourite looks from the weekend shows:

High-waisted, front splits, print on print and jewel colours at Prada:

Pastels, oversize coats & Audrey Hepburnesque at Jil Sander:

The bustier, baroque, beads and buds at Dolce & Gabbana:

    

She Wore I Wore

NdM will be championing the high street; producing 2 looks with one piece once a week. Tell us your views and any items you've seen that you'd like to have styled.

Today it's a beautiful nude high-waisted skirt with a light green bobble effect from H&M, styled with other H&M items, apart from the shoes:

Jil Sander returns to Jil Sander

But now the rather awkward question arises - will Jil Sander be able to keep up the strong and popular creative direction Raf Simons has been championing over the past seasons?

Musical chairs

NdM REPORTS:

Raf Simons has left Jil Sander, Dior is yet to find it's head honcho...go figure?

Jil Sander, separated from her label since 2004, now finds the helm empty of her powerful fashion empire...go figure again perhaps?

We eagerly await to hear the next steps in this latest fashion saga.

It's a Man's World

Finally recognising that menswear needs more time in London to showcase it's collection, today saw an excellent line up of menswear brands. Our favourite looks are below, with top marks going to Oliver Spencer for it's choice of models:

Graphic jumpers at JW Anderson:

 

Classic tailoring and the grey/blue mix at E Tautz:

Khaki-clad at McQ:

Black and white sleek at Oliver Spencer: 

Proof that London has the tailoring heritage, but fashion-forwardness and commercial awareness to create covetable collections. Agree?

Till Next Time London

London Fashion Week has come to an end for the womenswear, a round up of our favourites are:

-          McQ – khaki and tweed are on our must have list, red velvet and the dresses romanced us no end;

-          Erdem  - continued his wizardry with a fresh set of floral patterns and perfect day dresses;

-          Burberry Prorsum – grey was the champion colour and the velvet was a welcome addition of texture; and

-          Temperley London – the column dresses, should become a staple in our wardrobes and executed to perfection with the addition of well-placed belts.

London really is a spectacular launch pad for fashion and finally its designers are getting the coverage they deserve – hurrah!

The Spectacle of It All

It's during fashion week that one can really appreciate the work that goes into producing a collection and captivating people to the point of distraction. At NdM, the pieces are of course key, but the drama created by the lights, backing sound track, hair/make up and setting are vital. We attended Elisa Palomina at Freemason's Hall; the music - dramatic opera resounding in the high ceilings, and the movie lights created a performance that transported us to planet fashion with aplomb.

We also attended the Nabil Nayal presentation at the sleek and beautiful Corinthia Hotel. The setting couldn't have been more apt, the penthouse suite with mesmerising views across London and a collection with encouraging traces of McQueen, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent, but executed in an original and romantic way. Nayal was a Fashion Fringe finalist, and as you can see below we expect (and hope) great things.

 

Erdem's Bare Necessities

THE PRINT

THE FABRIC

 THE SILHOUETTE

 THE INNOVATION

Erdem's latest collection showed how remaining faithful to the basic tenets of strong silhouette, innovative print, beautiful fabric and just that right amount of modernisation can produce a stellar collection.  

THE Jonathan Saunders' dress

LFW, 2012

THE Mulberry dress

LFW, 2012

Welcome London Fashion Week!

Vogue UK, 2000

Fashion-speak

For those who have ever truly wanted to speak Hermès, i.e. beyond 'Birkin' and 'Kelly', we have an exciting piece of news. In conjunction with publishing house Actes Sud Hermès have published a book which details all of the multifarious jargon used in their workshops, which describes their techniques from bags, to saddles and accessories. This is a really interesting idea, with Hermès  going even further than their competitors to educate their followers on their artisanal heritage. It is a unique insight into the Maison as well as signalling how far we have come in terms of luxury buyers being considered as far more than simple consumers of product.

Working Girl

As New York Fashion Week draws to a close, we thought it was worth highlighting a key show for us. As with every season there are the designers who really inspire, and then there are the others who produce a solid collection but it lacks that certain je ne sais quoi. One design duo that really impressed NdM was Proenza Schouler. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are already coveted by fashion editors and have a loyal following, but we really felt their collection this season pushed forward with even greater innovation. The amount each piece was worked, with folds, woven leather, overzised silhouettes and woven paillette skirts, was truly exemplary. Each model rightly turned into a clothes horse, showcasing the very best in sophisticated and intelligent fashion design.

Mode Homme

We at NdM have had many requests in the past to cast our fashionable glance over the world of men's style too. So, we thought, why not herald our first foray into this suave world with our edit of some of the essential pieces for any style connoisseur's wardrobe. Add any piece to your current wardrobe as of immediate effect...

THE GLASSES: Cutler & Gross

THE KNIT - Loro Piana

 THE SHIRT - Raf Simons

THE WATCH - Uniform Wares

No-one like Whitney

The papers, magazines, twitter and facebook have gone into overdrive mourning the loss of Whitney Houston. The extent of tributes highlights not only how talented Houston was, but what she represented. In the happier times of her life, she was a musical powerhouse, releasing many a hit, with millions of fans gripped by her powerful voice and personality. We can recall a song which resonates for one reason another, and her turn in the Bodyguard, made a fiction of her life but highlighted that she was a diva, earning the rapport with which she was received. Houston may have had bumps in her life, but NdM will remember that talent and passion are rewarded, and that achieving success requires hard work but focus as well. Houston in many ways was a role model, especially in empowering women, let that be remembered, and not every negative story printed by the tabloids.

Katch some Katrantzou while you can…

Mary Katrantzou has launched her range for Topshop, which you can view on: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2012/02/10/mary-katrantzou-topshop-collection-unveiling/gallery. The biggest bonus of the range is that it reflects Mary’s signature prints like her main line, visually interesting, bursting with colour and cut to perfection. Some items may be on the pricier side, however, one dress by Katrantzou dress is more than enough for a respectably fashionable wardrobe.

Boys and their Toys

Vanessa Friedman of the FT has covered the latest offering by Prada – a short video which sails closely to looking like a 3D video game to advertise its sunglasses. She suggests this is an intelligent way of tapping into the interest of many men, playing video games, whilst also showcasing Prada’s offering. We’re always keen to see what Prada does next, and this does seem rather genius – women will fixate on the March magazine editorials, or the catwalk looks, but men would rather watch a short video that is technologically and aesthetically intriguing, and if they respect the finished product they may then part with their money. A good lesson in selling a product without looking contrived or desperate; unless, we and Prada are wrong about the depths a man has when watching the clip?

Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI1XkRCs1k4&feature=youtu.be

A Perfumed Push

The fall out from Tamara Mellon’s departure from Jimmy Choo was much publicised and raised many a question as to why she left when it seemed she was with the brand for the long haul. It has come to our attention that the private equity house seems confident that Mellon was not integral to the success of the brand, by launching new advertisements for its first perfume. It has replaced the chutzpah pose of Mellon holding the perfume, with an image of an anonymous person reaching for the perfume bottle. This is yet to be a widespread image so once NdM have sourced this we shall update you. 

This new look has gone seemingly unnoticed by many, but highlights that perhaps loyalty within luxury is over-rated and a brand can or should hold its own even if the initial person propelling the brand seems to have been ousted. But then again, perhaps this is a Jimmy Choo specific problem. The shoe-maker, so called Jimmy Choo, parted with his brand and name with Mellon taking over the helm, so perhaps it has come full circle with Mellon being the replaced party.

Givenchy + Pop?

Ricardo Tisci of Givenchy collaborated with Madonna for her looks during the Super Bowl; the results unsurprisingly were beautiful. Sligthly gothic, the right amount of gold embellishment and flatteringly angular, wish we were in Madaonna's shoes!

Collared

Shirts needn’t be white, office wear, as wonderfully exemplified by this Etro number. Style it with a boucle pencil skirt (grey or navy) or leather skinnies, add a ¾ length blazer and coral lipstick, and you’re good to go.

p.s. shoes to be avoided with this look are: Uggs, peep toes or ballet flats.

Da Vinci and His Students

The much lauded exhibition on Leonardo Da Vinci at the National Gallery has got NdM thinking. Da Vinci was multi-talented, fascinated with capturing the human form in all its vividness and educating others on the divine role of art. The exhibition places great importance on the students of Da Vinci, who were understandably in awe of his abilities and produced works of art emulating his methods. One thing that strikes is the question of whether a true master can only create work in his vision and whether students or admirers, although armed with the same materials, can really capture and continue such work. This point is especially pertinent in relation to fashion, where you have the likes of Chanel, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin. All these houses were started by enigmatic and talented people channelling their vision and creating enduring fashion legacies, which have been continued by other designers at the helm. There are of course archives that designers can use and the study of historical facts and influences, but arguably things just aren’t the same. Lagerfeld’s collections are beautiful and he updates classic pieces championed by Chanel, but would his lavish shows, highly decorated pieces and choice of muses really hold true to Coco Chanel’s vision? Pilati’s collections have recently received lukewarm comments, and he is only applauded where he uses signature colours of Saint Laurent – evidence that only the creator can create faithful to the philosophy of a design house?